I am obsessed with Japanese cuisine. The flavors are clean, fresh and somehow heartwarming: tranquil on a hot day and cozy when it’s cold outside. Flavors are so agreeable that many Japanese dishes have been assimilated not only to the American palate but also various Asian cuisines. But most delectable of all is the traditional notion of umami— the invisible taste that brings deep satisfaction to the taste buds and perhaps the soul. Dashi, a quick broth often made with konbu(dried kelp) and dried bonito fish, is a staple source of umami that is added to many traditional recipes. Michelin-star recipient and mythical sushi chef Jiro Ono (see “Jiro Dreams of Sushi“) describes umami as the “ahhh” factor. It’s the perfect harmony of tastes, the finishing polish that adds dimension– the analogies go on and on.
Fortunately, umami isn’t difficult to create at home. And, even better, it can be done without purchasing powdered MSG, the magical headache-inducing ingredient often used by cheap Asian restaurants. Instead, we’ve got miso, broth or dashi, dried mushrooms, bonito flakes and soba noodles to satisfy us. This easy weekday dish is perfectly complemented with steamed vegetables, chilled tofu or a soft-boiled egg.
Soba Noodles in Miso Soup
A note about the ingredients: These products are all available in Japanese (or Asian) supermarkets, as well as various online stores (such as Marukai). Some health food stores including Whole Foods will also carry popular items such as miso and soba. Ingredients found only in Asian markets will be marked with an *asterisk. Look for items sourced directly from Japan, if possible. All of these ingredients store well and can be used as needed. This recipe makes 1 to 2 servings.
- 1 bunch soba (buckwheat) noodles
- 1 tbsp (or to taste) red miso paste
- 3 cups chicken broth or homemade dashi*
- 1/2 cup dried cut wakame*, a soft sea vegetable that rehydrates in liquid (also available here)
- 1 tbsp bonito flakes* plus more for garnish
- 2 dried shiitake mushrooms
Cook the noodles according to instructions and drain, rinsing with cold water to stop the cooking.
In a saucier, heat the broth on medium-high heat. As the temperature rises, add the dried shiitake mushrooms. These mushrooms will release a delicious flavor into the broth, but are usually not good to eat unless soaked overnight.
As the broth begins to boil, add the bonito flakes. The bonito will add a smoky-savory dimension to the soup.
In a separate bowl, mix the miso paste and some of the hot broth until the miso is well dissolved. Pour the mixture back into the saucier. (You can also add miso directly to the soup but it can be difficult to dissolve.) Stir the soup and add miso to taste and discard the mushrooms. Remember that the soup will taste saltier once it cools.
Into a soup bowl, place the “dry” ingredients: the cooked soba, dry wakame, and remaining bonito flakes. Pour the hot soup over the noodles. Enjoy!
