Welcome to Porto.

Porto is the stunning, magical sister of Lisbon, Portugal’s capital. Upon arrival in its historic center, we are struck by its blend of old and new, its tiled facades, its welcoming walkability. Porto is where I found some of Portugal’s traditional treasures to take home with me and chased the golden light wherever I could.

This deeply romantic city is, in my opinion, perfect for when you’re ready to just stare at something beautiful with someone you love. Its delicious restaurants and easy-going attitude make for relaxed explorations, especially in the early mornings and late afternoons when the light is best.

Here are some of my favorite things to do in Porto.

Head to the river for a stroll at daybreak

The Ribeira area is captivating, especially as the sun comes up over the hills and lights up the riverfront. The area becomes increasingly filled with travelers and visitors throughout the day, but there’s a calmness to it around 7am, when the city is still waking up. Head toward the bridge for a photograph or two and simply enjoy the quiet view.

Drink in the beauty of the Porto Cathedral

Tiles are the primary reason for your visit, right? I’m only sort of joking. The traditional azulejos in pure blue and white are captivating across the country, not least in the famous Sé do Porto, which is conveniently perched atop a hill with stunning views all around.

Take your time through the Cathedral, as there will likely be plenty of visitors enjoying it with you. Portions of the cathedral were built as early as the 12th century, and over a course of time when Porto was at its prime as a financial center. The opulence is still evident in many of Porto’s architectural masterpieces.

Be sure to head up the tower if you are able, and take in the vista of the entire city. 

Window-shop for local Porto gifts and crafts

As a frequent traveler who falls in love with creative arts and traditions, I’ve rediscovered shopping as a way to appreciate and engage with local culture. Yes, there are mass-produced souvenirs sold for cheap— but if you’re curious about longstanding art forms and can appreciate them (even without purchasing), Porto’s shops have a lot to offer. 

Start wandering from the Sao Bento station toward Elements Contemporary Jewellery, where traditional Portoguese filigrina is sold. This spindly gold style shaped into flowers and hearts is handmade in only a few villages throughout the country. Another classic shop is Vista Alegre, a stunning ceramics store offering pieces for as low as under 20EUR. I was so impressed with the beautiful artistry painted on these ceramic pieces, even those that aren’t my personal style. Since a single cup and saucer set was pretty affordable, I purchased one for the friend who was housesitting for us during our trip. 

There are many artists taking up residence in Porto, and you can see their work on art market days and in small boutique stores. One shop we really enjoyed was Squid Ink Works, a collective of creatives offering prints, cards, ceramics, and more. I really loved their depictions of the city, capturing its mix of intricate and dilapidated details in a single image.  

Cross the Ponte Luís bridge to Gaia, where port is really made

It’s a blissful way to spend an hour just enjoying the views of Porto from the bridge and the town of Gaia, just across the river. If you have yet to try port, Gaia has lots of tasting rooms right along the water to enjoy a few sips. Since we had our lovely time in the Douro Valley, we chose to enjoy port with our meals instead. 

There’s hardly anything better than seeing Porto on a clear day, watching the light cast textured shadows on the city and looking to see where you’ve wandered and where you still want to go. Church facades, murals, and shopfronts are visible on this blissful walk. 

Take photos in front of your favorite iconic tiles

Truly, there are so many tiles and they are all so beautiful. If you were in Lisbon, you may have visited the Museum of Tiles and learned about the history this artistic finish.

It never gets old to me that these beautiful pieces were hand-painted and placed meticulously up entire walls to create a portrait or depiction of a story. And even if you were to purchase a single tile to take home, the way each tile plays a part in an enormous masterpiece can only be appreciated with a visit (and a photo). 

Some of the most popular tiled facades to visit include: 

• Sao Bento station interior and exterior
• Igreja do Carmo exterior
• Capela das Almas facade and exterior
• Church of Saint Ildefonso facade

Wander through Porto’s historic streets

With adorable green spaces, cozy sanctuaries, and creative street art, the city is really a treasure.  When you’re done running around to photograph all the iconic tile facades, slow down and simply enjoy the fading beauty of the once-wealthy finance capital of the country.

Speaking of fading beauty, there are a number of abandoned buildings in Porto’s historic district— right next to others that are fully functional and occupied. I wasn’t quite able to ascertain a clear explanation, but there are a few reasons locals have shared:

First, the authoritarian regime in Portugal had a long-term impact on the ability of landlords to invest in building upkeep. Some places have not been well-kept for decades, so they are now unlivable without a serious investment, for which many do not have the capital.

Additionally, there’s been a growing market in recent years of foreign buyers, who are able to price out locals and drive up the cost of real estate. Even so, it can take years to properly renovate a historic building that shares walls with other historic residences and comes under many regulations.

And finally, we were told that many buildings are caught somewhere between inheritance disputes, which can also last for years; meanwhile, no one is using the building and it is falling into greater disrepair.

Even while on vacation I can’t turn off my mind’s desire to understand why things are the way they are— and whether people who live there feel hopeful about their future. From what locals shared with me, through warm conversations and kind honesty, they have good reason for both healthy skepticism and genuine hope.

Try delicious local food

While I generally agree that most of the food in Portugal is pretty fantastic, there are a few places I loved in Porto. In general, I so greatly appreciated the culture of hospitality— the enthusiasm of sommelliers, servers, and chefs to share their cuisine and creativity. As someone who loves to cook and eat to better understand other cultures and regions, the food in Porto offered a real delight. (Also please take my recommendation to visit Douro Valley!)

Restaurants and eateries we loved (good for foodies)

• Popina: a lovely wine bar with delicious daily dishes
• Fauno: my absolute favorite meal we had in Porto— they have an amazing cocktail program (mocktails too)
• Almeja: another really delightful place with seasonal dishes— their rice, peas, and egg dish really blew me away
• Mercado do Bolhão: worth a stop especially if you love fresh seafood, fruit, and cheese!
• Manteigaria – Fábrica de Pastéis de Nata: the best makers of Portugal’s famous egg custard pastry

Visit the famous Livraria Lello, a stunning bookstore

There’s a lot of buzz about the Livraria, so let me tell you what it is and what it isn’t.

It’s an absolute architectural beauty. If you love old bookstores and libraries (which I do, hello history degree), it’s worth it just to see the intricate wood interior. I loved all the details, the stained-glass windows, and honestly just to be around so many books. Truth be told, it made me completely nostalgic for college and graduate school, where I had the privilege of sitting around old books in quiet corners without thinking twice. These days, I don’t get to do that as much.

It’s not a good place for a solo photo shoot, or anything to do with Harry Potter. Or to be alone. Instagram and other platforms have made this place hugely popular with these promises and unfortunately Lello will disappoint if you arrive with these expectations.

Tips for visiting: We were in Porto in April before prime tourist season but there was always a line outside the bookstore. You have to purchase a ticket on Lello’s website to enter and a specific time (and even then you will wait in line to enter). If you can swing it and don’t feel totally silly, I recommend purchasing the golden ticket— the highest-level entrance fee. With this ticket, you can walk straight in at your entrance time without waiting in line, which means you’ll be in there before most others assigned to your slot. This could effecitvely save you 30+ minutes of waiting, possibly more. The ticket is also reimbursable for a book purchase, though they may not have the books you want. Either way, the whole thing is a bit ridiculous but for someone like me who really loves books and bookstores, it was worth it.

Once you are inside, just relax and try to enjoy the bookstore slowly. There will always be lots of people there enjoying it with you.

Where to stay in Porto & other travel tips

Our hotel

I rarely photograph our hotels, but this time we snagged an amazing room at the Hospes Infantes Sagres. The lobby was absolutely gorgeous and I could not get over the furniture, decor, and beautiful light. In general I recommend staying near the historic center so you can walk everywhere. In low or shoulder season, Porto hotels seem to be much more affordable than many other European cities. 

Getting around Porto

If you’re going a bit further or just need a break from walking, Uber and Bolt are readily available and quite friendly. One thing I noticed about drivers in Portugal is that they are less rushed than in many other cities I’ve visited. Take a moment to get in and out of a car and the likelihood of someone honking at you is lower than I’m used to. 

What to wear in Porto 

It’s important to note that many of the streets have cobblestones or tiles, and like Lisbon, Porto is hilly. Bring appropriate shoes, which in my case were white sneakers and ballet flats with good traction. On our last night I decided to break out my heeled sandals and immediately regretted it. At that point I looked around to see if anyone else was in heels— I saw no one. So unless you feel really committed to them, I’d leave your heels at home. 

A few final thoughts on Porto

Porto is so many things I love as a traveler: stunning architecture, dynamic history, excellent food, and most importantly, kind people. Others feel the same, so Porto is immensely popular. If you’re traveling from far away, I recommend visiting other parts of Portugal to balance out the high concentration of fellow visitors you’ll experience— perhaps a drive to the Douro Valley or venturing to some of Portugal’s smaller towns.

That said, Porto is a beauty and really worthwhile. Here’s to its continued evolution.