Asia Archives | Simplicity Relished

Our China Adventure: poems, gardens, and painted dreams

June 24, 2018

Our trip to China was six months ago. Yes, it’s taken me this long to write and publish something about it. Lately I’ve found myself searching for deeper meaning as I travel, not simply wandering for wandering’s sake, or for writing a useful guide. Trust me, I’m still all about useful. But this post isn’t a guide. It’s about finding roots in a place that has experienced more uprootedness than perhaps any other on the planet.

I wish I could sum up our winter trip to China in just a few words, but China has to be one of the most multifaceted countries I’ve traveled to. Every time I visit and learn a bit more, I realize how little I know — and perhaps how little is disclosed.

We prepared for our visit. I could have been more diligent, but I was short on time and also prepping for our trip to Rome (yes, same trip). We started with watching this very long and thoughtfully produced PBS docu-series. I also read The Kitchen God’s Wife by Amy Tan and am still working through Wild Swans by Jung Chang. The political documentary balanced nicely with passionate storytelling set in more recent Chinese history from female perspectives….Continue Reading

Autumn In Kyoto: Where To Find The Best Foliage (with a map!)

September 24, 2017

Autumn in Kyoto is something else. Bursts of color occupy the stretch between earth and sky, spreading wide at the tops of trees, trickling down in fallen leaves, crunching beneath your feet.

Having lived in New England, my expectations weren’t low. But there was a fineness and delicateness to the fall foliage in Kyoto that I can’t describe as anything other than mystical.

Our suggested fall itinerary: temples and gardens galore

I fell in love with Kyoto in June of 2015. We were traveling through for just 3 days, but I was absolutely swept off my feet (excuse the cliche) by this gorgeous ancient city. Thousands of temples and gardens abound while visitors shuffle along in traditional Japanese attire as though there’s no other way. The cuisine is unique, impeccable just like all other Japanese cooking, and yet with a uniquely delicate flavor. Kyoto has long been a popular destination, and it deserves every last raving fan.

Last fall, we decided to park ourselves in Kyoto for almost a full week. We were catching the tail end of autumn along with many other Japanese nationals making the annual pilgrimage to see the old capital dressed in reds, yellows, greens and auburns. Everywhere we turned there were Japanese citizens (many of them elderly) paying homage to Kyoto in an iconic season: there’s nothing quite like hills of maple trees waving their brightly colored leaves like hands in the breeze.

Cambodia: Travel Guide and Photo Diary

June 28, 2017

Cambodia is a place I’ll never forget.

I grew up dreaming of visiting, and in April of this year, I finally did– with two of my best girl friends from college, one of whom just finished two years with Peace Corps there.

If you’ve ever to traveled to Southeast Asia, you’ll find a lot of similarities between Cambodia and neighboring countries. But you’ll also find flavors, stories, and challenges unique to Cambodia. Navigating the Khmer kingdom, still very much in recovery from the horrors of the Khmer Rouge, can be an adventure in and of itself.

I should preface this travel guide by saying that if seeing the world is important to you, I think you should visit Cambodia– and not just Siem Reap, where the famous temples are. But it might be a tougher trip than you imagine.

Cambodia is vibrant. In a single moment, it holds harrowing stories of human evil as well as glorious evidence of kindness, innocence, creativity and beauty. The Khmer people have lived in this region for centuries, and despite the destructive efforts of the Khmer Rouge, much of Khmer culture survives.

This guide will show you some of my favorite parts of Cambodia. It’s by no means comprehensive, but it’s also not just about typical tourist attractions. And ultimately, I hope you’ll go. Even if it’s a part of a multi-national trip to the entire region, I hope you’ll stay awhile.

Next Stop: Cambodia (and my itinerary)

April 3, 2017

Today I’m on a flight to a childhood dream.

Before I imagined myself frolicking in the fields of Tuscany or strolling through the streets of Paris, I wanted to be in Cambodia. Predating my taste for perfect, elegant food was my taste for gritty, old, abandoned centers of life. So the day I learned about Angkor Wat (and other temples), I knew I wanted to see them in person.

I am also a huge proponent of local travel– experiencing not only tourist-centered establishments but also what life is really like wherever we travel. What I loved so much about Mexico City and Quito, Ecuador was the activity and everyday adventure that proliferated between cobblestones and under awnings and behind beautifully bright doors. The truth is that most travel– particularly tourist travel– is an entirely aesthetic pursuit. If we’re to allow it to change our perspectives significantly, we must be open to the beauty (and challenge) of how lifestyles vary across the globe.

So my 10-day excursion to Cambodia will include a variety of activities (locally driven and touristy), not least because I get to hang with an insider! My really good college friend has been living in a small town in rural Cambodia for almost 2 years, and she agreed to spend part of her only work break to chaperone me and another friend around. I am so excited to see not only the famous temples of Siem Reap, but also Jasmine’s little town where she lives with her host family and teaches at a local school. It’s been months that I’ve admired her photographs from afar, and now I get to follow her around to her favorite spots.

A post shared by Jasmine Park (@jasmineapark) on Jul 6, 2016 at 3:55am PDT

My 10-Day Cambodia Itinerary

Jasmine, our friend Courtney and I will start our adventure in Phnom Penh, Cambodia’s capital. We’ll visit the the Royal Palace and the Russian Market, dining in Jasmine’s favorite cafes and restaurants. But perhaps most importantly, we’ll visit the Killing Fields and the Genocide Museum.

Heartbreaking but so very real, the Cambodian genocide was not that long ago. There is plenty of information about how a new regime effected massive destruction in a few short years, so I won’t share the details here– but it’s now a backstory that no visitor to Cambodia can ignore. In many ways, the road to recovery is still long.

After our brief stint in Phnom Penh, Jasmine will take us on a country road to her village, Phnom Kravanh, near the city of Pursat. In my mind, Jasmine’s village is a web of pristine dirt roads criss-crossing over endless miles of rice paddies. I’m expecting the reality to be a bit less picturesque, but I’m still (perhaps all the more) excited to experience a brief snapshot of Cambodian backcountry.

Jasmine has become quite the biker now that she has lived in Cambodia for a while, but I think we will be staying away from dirt biking during our visit.

A post shared by Jasmine Park (@jasmineapark) on Nov 1, 2015 at 4:58am PST

After 2 days in Jasmine’s village– hopefully visiting her host family, her students and local community– we’ll be on our way to Siem Reap, where the Angkor temples are located.

According to a number of sources (and Jasmine herself), the most stunning moments at the temples are sunrise and sunset. We’ll take early morning photographs of the gorgeous landscape, crawl through nooks and duck under overhangs. My only challenge will be staying present enough and taking a few moments to lower my camera.

After Siem Reap, we’ll be boarding a plane to Sihanoukville. The Cambodian coast is less famous than that of Vietnam or Thailand, but Sihanoukville tends to be overrun by backpackers seeking a good time. My friends and I are the more quiet types when it comes to relaxation, so we’ll be going straight from the airport to the ferry dock, where we’ll take a short ride to Koh Rong Samloem.

This beautiful, completely undeveloped island is the quieter cousin of Koh Rong Island. I’m hoping everything Jasmine has heard, and that I’ve read online, is true about Samloem– that there’s little to no electricity, absolutely no bars or clubs, and that we snagged one of few bungalows that even has air conditioning.

(image source)

I’m not going to lie– this photo looks a *little* over-saturated to me. But I know by the end of our trip we will be tired– and even if the beach is a little less cyan in color, we will definitely need the quiet respite.

I’ll try my best to be on Instagram (@simplicityrelished) throughout these adventures– but as always, I’ll bring home lots of stories and photographs to share in coming weeks.

(cover photo by Christian Moscoso)

10 Best Snapshots From Taiwan

October 21, 2015

My love for Taiwan runs deep. I grew up visiting at least once a year, partly because much of my extended family still lived there at the time. Every January, my mom would fly us to Taipei to celebrate the Lunar New Year when my cousins would get a break from school and have time to play. We went, that is, until my 2nd-grade principal called and said my mom needed to stop taking me out of school for a month at a time.

Our 3-Day Kyoto Itinerary

July 14, 2015

When I wrote our quick guide to Kyoto, I felt like I had to keep it reasonably short– namely, limit the number of photos. But I can’t stress enough how photogenic Kyoto (and the rest of Japan) really is! Everywhere we turned was a potential snapshot, and it required little cropping or editing to get them to look beautiful.

You can spend many, many days in Kyoto without getting bored; with over 2,000 temples (many with gardens) it would take years to see them all. Whether you have years or only a few days, Kyoto is a must-visit, and Travel & Leisure agrees. We took our time in Kyoto; we didn’t rush to see absolutely everything, because I am partial to slow travel. So, without further ado…

10 Best Snapshots from Japan

July 6, 2015

As I sift through our Japan photos, I have to ask myself: is there any place more photogenic than this?

So I decided to select only 10 snapshots that come with a good story or memory from our time in Japan. After reading this I hope you’ll feel compelled to visit one day! And if you have not read my other Japan-related posts, you can find them here.

If you’re asking yourself, “Should I go to Japan?”, take a look at these photos and you tell me!

1) Arashiyama Bamboo Forest

This bamboo forest was the bane of my existence for about 24 hours. We just could not find it! There’s an entrance to the forest that many people go to, and it looks kind of like this– except there are other trees and tons of electricity lines everywhere. We thought that was it… and that the famous bamboo forest had been totally overhyped. One early morning Aaron and I went to that beginning section of the forest, looking for it. We then searched in the wrong direction and found ourselves in a quiet residential neighborhood, disappointed. It was not until the 3rd time we looked for the forest that we wound up in the right place– here! It’s not overhyped after all!…Continue Reading

Local Cuisine: What To Eat In Japan

July 1, 2015

Many people don’t realize that Japan is arguably the world’s food capital. Tokyo has more Michelin-starred restaurants than any other city, and the famous Tsukiji Fish Market handles much of the highest-quality seafood to be found anywhere.

As a food lover myself, I could not have been more excited to visit. Japanese food traditions are founded on the idea of umami– the 5th taste that enhances all the other tastes (sweet, sour, salty and bitter). Umami is that savory quality that makes you want to take just one more bite; it’s possibly the best indicator of a successful dish.

Anthony Bourdain himself said of Japan, “This is a great country. Every chef I know wants to die here.”

Well, there it is.

Still, to the surprise of many Americans, Japanese cuisine is not composed of Dragon Rolls, sake bombs and beef teriyaki. In fact, it would not be easy to find any of those things on a Japanese menu, much less to explain it to Japanese chefs.

So if you’re traveling to Japan it’s important to know what you’re really looking for. Sure, they’ve mastered the plastic imitations that are displayed at the front of some shops, and some menus even have photos on them. But, just because you can see a picture doesn’t mean it’s what you should be eating.

Instead, here is my food “bucket list” for your visit.

What To Eat in Japan: A Food Bucket List

5 Lessons from Japanese Culture

June 30, 2015

One thing I enjoyed about Japan was that it was modern without being Western. Sure, it shares lots traits with Western countries– and went through a somewhat westernizing transformation during the Meiji period– but Japan owes its unique style to traditions far different from our own.

What I love about traveling is being able to make a splash– however brief– in a culture that challenges me. Even if it means feeling a bit disoriented, and perhaps nostalgic once I come home, the lessons remind me that my way is not the only way. It’s humbling to happen upon philosophies and ideas that provide the answers we’ve been searching for. Japan has done that for me.

5 Lessons from Japanese Culture

A Quick Travel Guide to Kyoto

June 29, 2015

There is so much to say about Kyoto (and I’ll hopefully say more in another in-depth post, so look out for that), but I wanted to put together a quick guide to Kyoto for anyone who’s thinking of visiting.

First of all, Kyoto should be on your list if you love travel. It was named Travel & Leisure’s #1 city to visit in 2014, so you know it’s got to be good!

Before you head to Kyoto (and possibly other parts of Japan), here are a few things to remember:

Japan is not a “cheap” destination. With the 3rd largest economy in the world, you can bet on spending at least $15-20 a day on food, much more if you wish to taste authentic cuisine! More on that later.
Most people in Japan do not speak English (or at least as much as people in Europe). There are few English signs in train stations, so be flexible or learn some Japanese phrases.
All of this said, Japan remains very travel-friendly. It’s safe, clean, and especially good for traveling alone. And there’s TONS to do and see!

Japanese Charm: Countryside Villages, Shops and Gardens Galore!

June 23, 2015

Happy Tuesday, friend! Our adventures in Japan continue beyond Tokyo to the countryside via shinkansen, the fastest train I’ve ever ridden.

Off to the historical villages we went– just northwest of Tokyo to the cities of Takayama, Shirakawago and Kanazawa. These areas are known for preserved architecture from the Shogun period, and they hold rich stories of old Japan.

This is only the second time that I’ve traveled with this blog in mind, and I think I am getting photography fatigue. Not being a professional (or even very experienced), travel photography can be rather overwhelming. Still, I’m chugging along like the little engine that could. Sure, my husband is a better photographer (check out his tips here), and I could continue to steal his photos, but I’m working towards a bit more independence here.

Anyway, this is the best I can do with the somewhat cloudy and rainy weather we’ve been having. Your feedback is greatly appreciated; enjoy the snapshots!

First stop: Takayama

Kami Sannomachi street is known as the “Small Kyoto” for its traditional buildings and canal-like gutters. Little shops with artisanal goods and tasty sweets line this pedestrian-only walkway. Ducking under noren, cloth dividers that cover most entries, we entered gorgeous displays of local earthenware and lacquerware….Continue Reading

Tokyo Travel: 10 Things to Love About Tokyo

June 17, 2015

It’s hard to believe that the first leg of our trip has come to an end. Tomorrow we’re off to the Japanese countryside!

But first, a couple of reflections on the trip so far. I did not expect to like Tokyo. Not only did I find it intimidating, but I also thought that it was mostly for high-fashion shoppers and electronics geeks, neither of which I am.

However, there has been nothing better than to make our initial splash in Japan here– at its modern, fast-paced, impeccably clean and hospitable capital. The truth is, Tokyo travel is awesome and a visitor to Japan would be ill-advised to skip it. Despite its far-reaching high-rises and even higher prices, I might even love it. We’ll see.

10 Things to Love About Tokyo

10 Highlights On Our Upcoming Japan Itinerary

June 1, 2015

soba noodles // by aaron — soba noodles in Japan // photo by aaron

Our trip to Japan is in less than 2 weeks…

It’s hard to believe. Aaron and I are both somewhat drowning in work at the moment, so our Japan adventures still seem far off.

Sometimes I feel as though I’d like to sleep for a week when work finally lightens up. But as I look through our itinerary, my excitement grows– not least because my husband volunteered there in 2011.

Japan is a destination with so many layers, and it feels impossible to ever see it all. But that doesn’t mean we won’t try.

The cliche of every cross-cultural adventure is that we will experience cultures unlike our own. And while I hate cliches, the fascinating thing about Japanese culture is that it is just as modernized as the West, but all too differently.

This means there will be more than a few moments where our foreign-ness is painfully apparent. The familiarity of advanced technology and first-world accoutrements will be juxtaposed with dramatically different social standards. Knowing me, I will probably put my foot in my mouth, periodically, throughout the trip.

In addition to expecting occasional embarrassment, I also expect to be amazed. There is something about the quiet, consistent and perfectionist nature of Japanese culture that I hope to learn from.

We come from a culture that is always talking, and I’ve already observed that we need a little more silence around here. But am I ready for the kind of silence in Japanese temples, gardens and even restaurants?

“Just assume that you’re being too loud– all the time.” That’s the advice I got from some website I no longer remember. When you’re in Japan, remember that your very presence is already too noisy. Duly noted.

source: conde nast — hoshinoya kyoto // conde nast

10 Highlights On Our Japan Itinerary

1) Tokyo, Old and New

To be honest, I’m a bit nervous about Tokyo. It’s a bustling city that is unbelievably organized, but that does not mean it will be easy to find anything. We’ll visit the stately Imperial Palace as well as the funky Harajuku District– a combination that seems more like a paradox than anything else. Wish me luck….Continue Reading

Queenstown and Milford Sound, New Zealand

May 26, 2015

The first time I ever wished I were a backpacker was when I went to Queenstown, New Zealand. I realized something then that I had never realized before: that when you carry your stuff on your back, you’re able to see things that other people just don’t get to see.

Still, without the backpack (and trekking poles and sleeping on a rock), the southern tip of South Island was nothing short of glorious.

Waterfalls that laced the rocks on their way down to seawater. Rugged peaks that became the famous backdrop for all of Gandalf’s rides. A strangely lapis lagoon that shimmered despite the rainstorm.

Let me back up for a moment.

After our magnificent, sunny stay in Marlborough Sounds— where we boated with dolphins and spotted the New Zealand Giant Pigeon, among other things– we boarded a flight to Queenstown.

It was forecasted to rain– hard– for the duration of our stay, and despite the fact that locals tried to convince us that rainy New Zealand was beautiful, we were miffed.

Yet as it turned out, the rain was the best thing. Something about the gloomy weather shed a pleasantly moody light on the entire place.…Continue Reading

New Zealand: Marlborough Sounds

May 18, 2015

It’s no secret that New Zealand is one of the most naturally stunning countries ever. And I’m pretty sure the filming of the The Lord of the Rings sealed the deal for that reputation.

And why not? With picturesque coasts, rugged mountains, jade-green fjords and rolling pastures, New Zealand is a shutterbug’s dream.

Our family traveled to New Zealand in January 2013, and it was terribly difficult to decide where to go. Due to the geological diversity of the two islands– North and South– we had to make some tough choices.

After hum-ing and ha-ing about our trouble in paradise, I selected two destinations on South Island– the second of which I’ll be sharing in the near future. First stop? Marlborough Sounds.