Mexico’s wine region, Valle de Guadalupe in Baja California, is growing in popularity as it rises to the top of international lists for culinary and wine-tasting adventures.

But first, a story about what brought us there. We were nearing the end of our season in Southern California and preparing to move back east. And it was a sudden revelation: over the four years that we lived in Los Angeles, never did it occur to us to drive down to Baja California. We love Mexico, but going there always meant jumping on a $200 round trip flight from LAX to Mexico City. Obviously, we needed to do at least one border crossing before we left.

But enough about us and why we love Mexico. This is about your upcoming trip to Mexico’s ever-growing wine region. Decorated with farm-to-table restaurants, stunning nebbiolos, and hip new hotels, the Valle de Guadalupe is the perfect weekend getaway for foodies and wine lovers like you.

First, a little history

You can’t go to a place and know nothing about the stories that have transpired there– stories make a place what it is, and wine is an embodiment of these kinds of stories. The Valle de Guadalupe, located in the northern part of Baja California, was settled in the late 16th century by the Spanish (surprise). Wine making theoretically started then– but the majority of the wine region today was developed more recently in the last hundred years.

Russian immigrants in the 20th century made their mark with a few vineyards, and today lots of locals and immigrants (from the US and Europe) are trying their hand at growing in the Valle’s dry clay soil. Many of the roads throughout the Valle de Guadalupe are this very clay that produces stunning nebbiolos and blends. We’ll talk about our favorite wineries in a bit.

What you see today is a stunning wine destination that is still very much being developed. It’s not like Napa or Sonoma or Paso Robles or any other wine-growing region in California Norte, or the US part of California. Baja California has its own vibe, aesthetic, and most importantly, terroir (to borrow a French word when describing Mexico). The nearby ocean, the dessert landscape, the dry hot days, and the rugged ambience all contribute to the flavors you’ll taste in this region.

Valle de Guadalupe vs. Napa Valley

To anchor your mind, someone may have described the Valle de Guadalupe as Mexico’s Napa Valley. To say this analogy is imperfect is to understate how wildly different the two destinations are. I’m no fanatic, but I do know that Napa placed California on the radar of wine critics globally when it outpaced a French wine in a blind tasting contest (some were scandalized by this). Since then, California’s relatively young wine scene has been compared to some of the oldest in Europe

Mexican wine, on the other hand, is spunky, experimental, and free of such global expectations. That is not to say the wine isn’t delicious— in fact, quite the contrary. If you have any doubt that there is quality wine in the Valle, go ahead and tell it to The French Laundry, a famous restaurant *in* California’s Napa Valley that serves a beautiful Chardonnay from Mexico.

Day 1: Lunch, wine tasting, and dining al fresco

1PM: Lunch at Deckman’s en El Mogor

There’s arguably no wine country with a bad food scene, nor should there be. And Valle de Guadalupe is one of the best places to experience Baja cuisine— the originator of some of our favorite Mexican dishes. Here you’ll find the best mariscos, featured on the grill, in tacos, or on their own with a little onion, cilantro and squeeze of lime.

Drew and Paulina Deckman run one of the Valle’s most formidable restaurants, sourcing local ingredients and pouring local wine. The Deckmans run a rustic, homey haunt with open-air grilling and a menu featuring everything from local oysters to homemade ice cream.

3PM: Check in to your hotel, take a nap

Let’s be clear: the hotel scene in the Valle de Guadalupe is developing. What that means is you’ll find a range of options, all of which cater to the wine country experience. Whether you choose an hacienda or a modern boutique resort, make sure it’s a place you’ll love coming back to when you’re ready to take a (wine-induced) nap.

We decided to stay at the Hotel Boutique Valle de Guadalupe— it was the right price point for us and we ended up really loving the rustic style of the hotel. To add to the ambience, the hotel itself features vineyards, horses, and poolside lounging. More than good enough for us!

If you’re looking for more high-end options, I suggest trying out Encuentro Guadalupe, one of the most picturesque options in the area. Their beautiful infinity pool looks out into the sweeping valley, and the floor-to-ceiling glass windows of each bungalow captures the modern vibe of the entire establishment.

4PM: Wine tasting at Torres Alegre

Vinícola Torres Alegre is what a PhD in oenology can taste like. Dr. Victor Torres Alegre is the only man in Mexico with this academic degree, and it shows in how the family cares for the winery and the nuance of the wine.

Pull up to the winery after making a reservation, and relax on the upstairs balcony overlooking the vineyards while they pour you whatever strikes your fancy. Unlike some other wineries, this isn’t a machine; you can tailor this experience to your tastes, and that’s why we loved it.

6:30PM: Dinner at Corazón de Tierra

The stunning glass dining room. The embroidered furniture. The sweet, deep flavors of smoke and citrus. Corazón de Tierra is one of my favorite restaurants in the world and absolutely cannot be missed. Nestled in an establishment off the main drag, the restaurant has been named one of the 50 best in Latam, not least because it has its own beautiful garden from which to harvest herbs and fresh greens.

My favorite dish? Probably the taco with a tender bass, frijol, and herbs I don’t even recognize. The flavors balanced so beautifully and now, months later, I can still taste it.

I’m also going to put in a plug for their cocktail offerings. Yes we’re in wine country and you should definitely request a wine pairing, but start with whatever lemongrassy, chipotle spicy, or otherwise astonishing beverage first. You won’t regret it.

Day 2: Valle breakfast, bike riding, lounging at the spa, and Finca Altozano

7AM: Bike ride through the Valley

If you stay at a hotel with free rental bikes (I believe this is fairly common), wake up early and go for a ride. The Valle is beautiful in the morning, the air is impeccably fresh, and you might be the only ones riding through the dirt roads. We road our bikes to the neighboring hacienda, where we snuck a few photos before they verified that we were not indeed guests. #worthit

Another option is to see if you can go on an early morning horseback ride. If your hotel doesn’t have its own steeds, see if you can book one at a different spot.

9:30AM: Breakfast at La Cocina de Doña Esthela

You’ve worked up the appetite, so eat the elote pancakes. No day in the Valle should begin without breakfast at La Cocina de Doña Esthela. This beautiful rustic cuisine is earthy and so deeply satisfying. As soon as you sit down, you’ll get to taste homemade tortilla chips, spicy salsa and queso fresco. But don’t fill up— there’s lots to order off the menu. We highly recommend the corn pancakes and the lamb stew (for breakfast? yes). The pancakes are soft and flavorful and the lamb drips with flavor. This is already an overwhelming amount of food but I also recommend a glass of the orange juice.

12PM: Get a spa treatment or relax at the pool.

Let’s remember, this is wine country, so relaxing between eating and drinking is absolutely necessary. The good news is that you can do this the way that works best for you— reading your favorite novel at the hotel pool or getting a luxurious aromatherapy treatment at the spa. We opted for the pool, but have heard great things about the spa at Quinta Monasterio, where the treatments involve various wine-based ingredients (because, why not?).

3PM: Wine tasting at Lechuza

Lechuza is our favorite winery in the Valle. Lechuza means “ground owl” in Spanish (yes, there are owls that live in holes in the ground, it was news to me as well). We tasted some of my favorite wine in their stunning patio and wandered through the vineyard on our own. Truly magnificent.

What put Lechuza on the map? Their crisp white Chardonnay featured on the French laundry’s wine menu. Personally, I preferred the Amantes red, a beautiful, floral blend that is uniquely their own. I could sip that all day long.

Make a reservation at Lechuza ahead of time, and make sure you ask all the questions. They have some of the friendliest staff (and dogs).

6PM: Long dinner at Finca Altozano

Meander your way to one of the Valle’s classic outdoor grills, where you can watch the sunset over their vegetable garden and vineyard. Their resident pig wanders around picking up scraps, but it’s really cute and kind of fits the whole scene.

The food at Finca Altozano is bold, vivacious, and the perfect complement to full-bodied local wine. We recommend spacing out your meal for several hours so you can taste a few different glasses paired with spoils from the grill.

Day 3: Sleep in, lunch at Laja, say goodbye

9AM: Breakfast and mosy on out

Wake up blissful because of yesterday’s intense eating, drinking, and exploring. Grab a light breakfast at your hotel (usually provided), and prepare to head to your next destination.

11:30AM: Lunch at Laja

Finally, grab a meal at Laja, the Baja restaurant of one of our favorite chefs, Jair Tellez. With a couple white-hot restaurants in Mexico City (Merotoro and Amayo), Tellez produces highly creative dishes that will resemble nothing else you’ve ever eaten. At Laja, enjoy a tasting menu and make sure to select at least one crudo.

1PM: Leave the Valle with a tear in your eye

Your 48-hour dream in the Valle de Guadalupe has come to an end, but we hope you grabbed a few bottles to share with friends at home. Begin the drive back to Tijuana, to Ensenada, or your next stop. Meanwhile, check out our downloadable map of all recommended locations (with a few Tijuana spots thrown in), and pin this post for later!

“It’s like Europe!”

If you’ve heard someone say this about Buenos Aires, they’re not entirely wrong. There are beautiful buildings modeled after Paris. There are broad avenues, stunning gardens, and as colonial history would have it, many locals who can claim Italian, German and Spanish roots.

But Buenos Aires is decidedly Latin American, despite its relatively young history and tumultuous political past. As our Argentine journalist friend suggested, it’s a country whose identity is still in development.

Identity crisis or not, there’s a ton to enjoy about Buenos Aires. And given all the research we did— and what we learned while there— I wanted to share this little guide with you.

The “touristy” stops you shouldn’t miss

Recoleta Cemetery: This stunning cemetery contains mausoleums that are more than 200 years old in a city-of-the-dead kind of setting. Some families continue to pay for upkeep, while other graves have been abandoned to disrepair. Evita Peron is buried here (yes, the protagonist of the musical Evita), though that wasn’t her initial burial place. Entrance to the Cemetery is free and well worth it.

La Boca neighborhood: This is where Tango was born, and where immigrants and Argentines of color often lived. If you wander around Buenos Aires wondering where the non-Euros are, La Boca might be what you’re looking for. There is a free tenement museum that you can’t miss, plus lots of restaurants and shops. Despite its uber-touristy vibe, La Boca holds some of Argentina’s oldest history and is worth a visit.

San Telmo market: Not far from La Boca is San Telmo, one of the oldest neighborhoods in Buenos Aires. On certain days, the market opens and craftspeople, antique traders, artists, jewelers, and other vendors hawk their wares throughout the streets. It’s chaotic and you might not find anything you want to purchase (or perhaps you have an eye for antiques and will discover a treasure), the energy is super fun.

Plaza de Mayo and surroundings: Every Latin American capital has at least one Plaza. Buenos Aires’s plaza is stately and historic. You’ll see the Casa Rosada where presidents lived and a large cathedral (check out the interior). Demonstrations occurred in this plaza, particularly memorable were the ones led by mothers whose children disappeared during the Dirty War.

El Rosedal and other gardens: A city with a free public rose garden? This was one of the most astonishing sights in Buenos Aires because it seemed so unusual. The roses are extensive and colorful and varied, just like they should be. Other gardens are nearby, including a Japanese garden and a botanical garden.

El Ateneo bookstore: This bookstore is a converted theater that initially opened in 1919. Now converted and restored, it houses a sweet respite from warm Argentine summers and offers reading in every genre you can think of. There’s a cafe inside so really no reason not to linger!

Museo Bellas Artes and others: If you’re feeling inspired to spend some time in front of a painting, the Bellas Artes museum is the place to go. You’ll recognize a lot of the names associated with work on display. I’ve heard good things about other art museums in Buenos Aires as well.

See a Tango show: Sadly we weren’t able to fit in a tango show, but I’ve been before during a prior visit to Buenos Aires. If you’re going to pay up for dinner and a show, I highly recommend reading reviews and going for a high-quality venue. There are also dance bars where Tango is spontaneously performed late at night. Be sure to ask the locals where to find those.

The soccer/football stuff: Futbol is a hugely significant part of Argentine culture, but it’s not a part of ours. If you’re interested in seeing a game or further pursuing fandom, you’ll have to look elsewhere! 🙂

Our favorite restaurants (especially if you’re tired of steak)

I expected almost all our meals to encompass sausage or steak, but thankfully there is a lot of variety in the city. In higher end restaurants you’ll encounter beautiful creations of produce from land and sea, an integration of European cooking techniques with local terroir.

Proper: show up at this hot new restaurant right when it opens or you could be waiting for hours. Served tapas style, each dish is only a handful of bites and meant to be shared. We plunged through creative salads and one of the best steaks I’ve ever had (when in Rome…).

Mishiguene: Jewish cuisine done expertly. They are famous for their brisket (and it is delicious) but vegetarians will find their bliss somewhere between the charred eggplant and roasted cauliflower. A word to the wise: they have an awful reservations system and at the time of writing, a not very nice hostess, so be patient and persistent and you will be rewarded.

Tegui: award-winning, creative, offbeat astonishing food. This tasting menu is so unexpected and the environment is exquisite. Wine pairing was fantastic, and I especially loved the vermouth they make in-house (would have paid a lot for a bottle if it were for sale). Book in advance.

Roux: Two words— octopus carpaccio. This French-style restaurant is situated on a cute little corner and offers a delightful lunch.

Don Julio: Don’t come here if you’re actually tired of steak, but if you’re not, it’s the place to be. You’re in Argentina, after all, where the average person consumes many pounds of steak per year. You don’t have to eat it excessively, but if you’re an omnivore, you should try their T-bone. Order it “jugoso,” or medium rare.

Chila: fanciful tasting menu of delights with super down-to-earth service. They start off with a series of Argentine “snacks” like savory macarons and a mate tea experience. It’s also on a pier so the view is pretty sweet.

Crizia: seafood for people who love seafood. Tuck in for a pile of the freshest mariscos from the Argentine coast. Crizia does an impeccable job combining high-end with comfortable.

The cutest neighborhoods to wander through

What’s a city without wander-able neighborhoods? Thankfully Buenos Aires has a few.

Palermo: So hip it has its own Soho. We stayed in Palermo and it was a lovely spot to wake up and walk around. The street art in Buenos Aires is pretty charming, so you’ll find lots of that here.

If you find yourself hungry in Palermo, stop by Salvaje Bakery for a quick coffee and pastry, or Bourbon Brunch and Beer for a drink. Your Instagram account will be happy you did.

Retiro: This is what they mean when they say Buenos Aires looks like Paris. There truly are some very nice homes that look like they could be situated on Boulevard St. Germain. You probably can’t go into any of these, but there’s a flower shop with a basement bar (speak-easy style) that you can check out after 6PM. It’s called Floreria Atlántico.

How to prepare for your visit

If I’m totally honest, I wish we were even more prepared for our trip. I had very little time to dig into Argentine history or culture and had the good fortune of Aaron and his family planning for most of our trip (by the way, our visit to Buenos Aires was the starting point of a long journey through Patagonia).

So, if I were to do things all over again, I’d recommend the following:

• Do some reading before you go. Whether you pick up a top-ten book or a novel, learning about the country will do you good.

• Pack for the season. Don’t make assumptions about what the city’s climate will be like; make sure to check the weather reports. It was hotter and more humid than I expected and I only brought one t-shirt!
• Make the reservations that matter. Naturally, book your hotels and any restaurants that require advance notice. If you’re looking to see a tango show, go on a tour, or watch a soccer match, plan for that in advance as well.
• Get cash. Argentine pesos are highly inflated these days and yet somehow hard to come by in the city. Make sure you order the amount of cash you plan to spend. Tipping is all done in cash, but restaurants often do not have change. Many high-end restaurants take credit card so inform your cc company accordingly.
• Figure out your transportation plans. There’s public transportation in the city, as well as taxis and Uber. A note about Uber: we enjoyed using Uber here but there are mixed experiences. It’s not well established, and if you are not comfortable speaking Spanish or don’t have data on your phone, I’d skip it.