There’s a reason magical realism arose in Colombia. Between its lush greenery, impossible-to-govern terrain, kind people, and bright colors, there’s a dreamy quality to the country that I hope never goes away.

Understandably, Colombia is rising in popularity. Unfortunately this has led to crowded cities where locals find it increasingly impossible to live near where they work. Towns outside major cities are becoming crowded as well, catering to day trippers and visitors looking for a good escape.

Concepción is a precious and peaceful town, and if you visit I hope you’ll help keep it that way. There’s limited infrastructure to get there so maybe it will receive the kinds of travelers who are eager to learn, blend in, and appreciate all that the town has endured.

Founded as a gold mining town in 1771, the town has a long history. Many locals work in agriculture, coming into town to gather supplies, attend church, and participate in community activities. There are a handful of inns (more on that below) but the tourism industry is not as prominent here. A number of restaurants serve up fantastic traditional Colombian food near the main square.

Like many towns in rural Colombia, Concepción was deeply affected by La Violencia— the period in history describing the peak of violence in Colombia related to cartels, paramilitaries, and the drug trade. Some of the local families have been there for generations and are in the process of rebuilding and restoring abandoned homes. 

How to visit Concepción in Antioquia

While you could visit Concepción in just a day, I recommend staying a night or two to really soak in all of its delights. To get to Concepción, you can take a bus from Terminal del Norte in Medellín. There are two similar routes between Medellín and Concepción, and the trip usually takes 2-3 hours. While the route is very scenic, make sure you’re prepared for a few twists and turns if you’re prone to motion sickness.

We decided to call a car and make direct arrangements with the driver. You can try this method as well, but you’ll need to plan ahead to make sure there’s someone who can take you back as well. This was a much easier and more flexible approach to getting to Concepción and back to Medellín at our own pace.

What to do in Concepción

Relax at the beautiful Finca Los Abuelos

We had a magical stay with Cristian and his family at Finca Los Abuelos that nourished me so much. This lovely property nestled in the hillside is walking distance from the main town square, but absolutely quiet and tranquil. After years of abandonment, Cristian’s family is working to restore the place by hand.

Upon arriving you’re welcomed with a delicious local coffee. The rooms are cozy and beautiful, dispersed throughout the well-tended garden. Tropical flowers dangle everywhere and the whole place is overwhelmingly charming. What could possibly be more wonderful than coming back to a cozy stay that requires crossing a crystal-clear river?

The family keeps chickens, ducks, and a dog on the property, and everyone is incredibly kind and hospitable. Note that they are mostly Spanish speakers so brush up on your Spanish to enjoy chatting with them. The best way to reach out is via WhatsApp!

Climb to Alto de la Virgen for stunning panoramic views

From the center of the town, you’ll see a zig-zagging pathway up to the top of a hill where you can catch great views of the city. This is quite the walk so make sure you have comfortable shoes. At each point up the hill, there is a “station” for reflection. It’s a lovely way to experience both physical and spiritual vitality— and will ensure you have an appetite for the delicious traditional meal afteward.

To find the Alto de la Virgen, you can locate it here on Google Maps or simply ask around for directions. You’ll find that Concepción is pretty walkable and friendly so you’re unlikely to ever get lost. On the way to the footpath to the Alta, there are lots of residential homes and you’ll likely encounter local children playing in the street.

Enjoy the best Bandeja Paisa (and then a coffee) 

Sure, if you’ve been in Medellín you’ve probably had some form of this meat-and-starch bonanza. But! It’s a totally different experience enjoying it in a town like Concepción, and El mecedor is the place to have it! They make everything to order on the spot and are so proud of their delicious cooking (as they should be). It was a splendid meal that changed my mind about this traditional dish.

Afterward, head over to Avelí Café for a beverage of your choice. Chat it up with the folks who run it and hear why they moved to Concepción from Medellín!

Wander leisurely through the town

Concepción is so picturesque— you’ll want to make sure you have time to photograph it. I loved all the pristine colors and patterned doors, along with bits of artwork throughout the town. It’s important to note that the town is quiet and residential, so be respectful as you explore. Furthermore, it’s not a place with a lot of parties or clubs at night, so enjoy yourself during the day time and relax in the evening after dinner.

If you stay at Finca Los Abuelos they can also give recommendations for places to wander and things to do. But really, the point is to relax and simply take in the beauty of the local culture.

Hide away in the gardens and visit the waterfall at Finca Los Abuelos

Another reason to stay at Finca Los Abuelos! There are lots of nooks to sit with a book, journal, or your favorite songs throughout the Finca, I can’t recommend it enough! During the day, you can also ask one of the family members to take you to the waterfall on the property (wear good walking shoes). If you’re feeling adventurous, take a dip!

I loved looking at all the beautiful flora throughout the property, wandering through the small bamboo forest, and enjoying the shifting sunlight. In the evening, the family builds a campfire near the river so you can listen to the sound of rushing water and reminisce.

A few final thoughts: cherish Concepción

There are so many weekend getaway destinations outside Medellín (Guatapé, Jardín, Jericó to name a few), but Concepción is truly special. I totally understand why its residents want it to fly under the radar, even as inn owners hope to attract more visitors to stay and not just come for the day.

I think there’s a way to love and appreciate a place as a visitor without turning it into an overrun destination. I hope that thoughtful travelers will help Concepción retain its beauty, authenticity, and soul.