Seville might possibly be one of my favorite towns in Western Europe, and I have been to a handful. Laid back, sophisticated, sunny and romantic, it’s pretty much everything you might possibly be looking for on vacation.
In 2015, we ended up traveling to 5 different continents– and after all that travel, I realized that my favorite activity is wandering. Aaron puts little landmarks on a map, noting all the cafes, museums, churches and shops we might want to check out in the neighborhood. Then we just meander, taking our time, laughing, investigating, photographing.
If you love our very joie-de-vivre approach to travel, then put Seville on your travel bucket list. Give it 48 hours (or more if you can!), and Seville will satisfy every craving!
Table of Contents
When to visit
Seville is beautiful in the winter. The trees are filled with oranges, the weather is mild. The locals still sleep through the late afternoon at times, but it’s the perfect time to wander if you just can’t put yourself to bed in broad daylight.
Summers are exceedingly hot. Aaron went on a family vacation to Andalusia years ago, and he remembers very little other than sweating at every single landmark. Avoid Southern Spain in the summer if you can.
Where to stay
There are tons of AirBnB apartments in Seville. We stayed here and loved it (Juan is fantastic!), close to the Seville Cathedral and the downtown area (el centro). Everything worth seeing in Seville is walking distance, though, so don’t worry too much about location as long as you’re willing to walk a few miles a day.
If you’re up for a splurge, go ahead and book Hotel Alfonso XIII. This stunning 5-star retreat has impeccable service and a beautiful interior. Or, if you’re like us, enjoy a meal on their patio instead.
Our 48-Hour Itinerary
Day 1: Reales Alcazares, Seville Cathedral, Night Life
10AM
Arrive in Seville mid-morning if you can, and check in to your accommodations. Look around– you’re in one of the most beautiful and hospitable European towns.
Grab lunch if you need to: paella (rice cooked with seafood and saffron) is a local specialty, and many restaurants take pride in their own recipe. Hungry for a snack? Try a local churro– it’s nothing like the sugar-crusted stuff at Disneyland. It’s light, fluffy and totally addicting.
1PM
Now that you’ve eaten, start exploring! Head to the Royal Alcazar (Reales Alcazares). This is a magical palace dripping with Moorish detail and luxury. Give yourself at least an hour or two to truly marvel at ever detail. Don’t worry– there are lots benches and nooks (especially in the gardens) to rest your feet. Read more about the Alcazar here.
3PM
Next, head to the Seville Cathedral that towers over the entire city. Marvel at its size and its gorgeous exterior. Then climb the tower to the very top for panoramic views of Seville. Be sure to wander around the neighborhood of the Cathedral as well; admire its quaint architecture and adorable residents.
If you’ve been traveling all day, head back to your hotel and put up your feet. Relax– dinner doesn’t start till 10PM, 9PM at the earliest. You’ve got nothing but time.
If you’re restless, check out the Plaza Nueva outside City Hall (Ayuntamiento), and people-watch to your heart’s content. If you’re hungry for more, go to the Museo de Bellas Artes— it’s beautiful and as far as Spain goes, only second to El Prado in Madrid.
8:30PM
After sunset, the city really comes to life. Everyone is on the town– grandparents, children, and people in between. Head out and enjoy the scene before dinner. Take a ride on the carousel, or grab a bite of jamón ibérico or olives at a little shop. Munching and strolling is the way of life here– embrace it. If you’re lucky, there might just be a free show at the Metropol Parasol. Either way, it looks beautiful lit up at night.
If you’re in the mood to shop, continue to stroll in the downtown area. At Christmas there’s an artisanal market that remains open till 10PM in the Plaza Nueva. It’s the perfect place to find a special souvenir from Spain.
9:30PM
Enjoy tapas and local wine at a bar of your choice. If you’re a foodie and want to taste Spanish food at its best, don’t pass up on the Taberna del Alabardero. This amazing establishment has a gorgeous dining room and boasts a Michelin star. For its rating, the prices are beyond fair, and the food is fantastic.
Don’t worry if your evening doesn’t end till midnight or later. Spaniards are not early risers, an neither is the sun in winter, apparently. When we were there in late December, sunrise was at 8:30. Sleep in!
Day 2: Plaza de España, Casa de Pilatos, Barrio Santa Cruz
10AM
As I said, sleep in. There’s no point in getting up at 8AM unless you like wandering around in the dark. Once the sun has risen, grab a bite to eat at a local cafe. We fell in love with the pastries at Pan y Più, and you can get a slice of quiche and coffee for just a few dollars. Want a Spanish breakfast? It’s all about the baguette and cured ham. Wash it down with some zumo de naranja— fresh squeezed orange juice, a local favorite.
11AM
Head south towards the Plaza de España. On your walk, you will see beautiful streets, horse-drawn carriages and unassuming parks. Spanish mornings are calm, so take your time. Try to resist the Starbucks or Dunkin’ Donuts on the way there– you’re in Europe, after all.
If you enjoy tranquility, bring a book with you to the Plaza. There are plenty of beautifully tiled benches, and a small canal that runs through the place. Take those touristy bridge pictures and then read for a while.
Slowly wander back, and enjoy a leisurely lunch where you please. Regain your strength for an afternoon of exploring.
2PM
Visit the Casa de Pilatos, a privately-owned mansion that features Roman, Moorish and Renaissance influences. The courtyard is truly a sight to behold. Grab one of their free audio guides and listen to the history of every room. Then, wait for the upstairs tour in English. A guide will take you through the rooms filled with the family’s oldest collections. Give yourself 2 hours to fully take it all in.
3:30PM
Once you’ve had your fill of history and art, make your way towards the Barrio Santa Cruz. This adorable neighborhood has the prettiest balconies and alleys, and used to be the Jewish quarter. Relax on a bench beneath orange trees, or grab an afternoon coffee before the town takes its nap.
8:30PM
Have dinner at another tapas restaurant, or make your way to the stunning patio of the Hotel Alfonso XII. Eat at Ena By Charles Abellan, the casual option at the hotel. Enjoy scrumptious ceviche, salads and their variation on paella. After dinner, stroll around like everyone else, or get dessert at a tapas bar near your accommodation. We never made it to Las Ovejas Negras, but heard good things from multiple sources.
Day 3: Torch Coffee Roasters, Say Goodbye
Before you leave Seville, give yourself a treat and take a walk to Torch Coffee for a cappuccino and some house-made breakfast. If you’re a coffee fan (ahem, snob), you’re going to want to try this. As you probably know, Europe is not quite as advanced in Third Wave coffee as hipster towns in the U.S., but it’s getting there– or so we hear.
Pack your bags and get ready for your next destination. Bid farewell to Seville and shed a tear that you didn’t have more time to spare.
Our Favorite Seville Resources
Books
- Top 10 Andalucia (pocket-size with map: get the print book, NOT the Kindle version!)
- Seville & Andalusia (more details, beautiful book)
Thanks Rebecca! Enjoy! 🙂
Just discovered this post. We’re off to Seville next week and am so excited. Thanks for sharing all your tips!
Thank you for sharing this very useful guide with beautiful photos. I really look forward to my trip to Seville in a few months and will be sure to do some of the things you mentioned.
I’m envious that you’re headed to Seville. What can I say? Get seduced by the orange-scented cobbled streets of Barrio Santa Cruz, be awed by the immense Gothic cathedral, be mesmerized at the Alcazar palace, ogle at the beautiful buildings everywhere, realise that you are in love with the city at Plaza de España. Oh did I mention the haunting strains of the flamenco guitar, the mouth-watering tapas, the gorgeous-looking people? The list goes on and on. Bottom line- soak in the ambience!
Hello! I just happened to read your comment and i just booked my flights 10 minutes ago, would you have so me recommendations for me? I’ll go next week only from thursday to sunday! Can’t wait! 🙂
Seville will always be one of my all-time favorite cities in the world. I’ve visited Seville around six times in my life and believe me each time, she casts a magic spell on me. ‘love your posts and pics!
I will use your info for my trip, I think is really nice and your photos are excellent! that pictures inspire me 😀
Thanks for this awesome post, the pictures help and you capture the beauty that Seville has to offer. And the coffee tho! Makes me Wanderlust for Spain that much more!
Makayla xo
http://www.theimagealkemist.com
Those compliments on the photographs mean so much coming from you! I hope you were able to see them all– my blog (as you know) has been experiencing some issues and a few photos here and there seem not to be loading. Either way, I am so glad you liked what you saw. Sevilla is such a stunning place, such good fodder for art and writing!
Ah Sevilla! This city is so close to my heart and reading through your beautiful blog post brought me right back to its narrow, cobble-stoned, quiet streets overflowing with charm. And these photos have taken my breath away! These are some of the more sophisticated and gorgeous photographs I’ve seen in the blog-o-sphere lately — this trip is really bringing your skills to new heights! Can’t wait to see what comes next!
XO
Jess
Ooh you would LOVE Seville (and Spain I think!)… glad you enjoyed these snaps!
Thank you, Hena!
Seville is at the very top of my travel bucket list! Reading your account is satisfying me now until I get to go myself. Gorgeous photos, as usual! 🙂
stunning..
Glad to hear it Marla! I hope you make it to Seville– you’ll love it!
Yes!! You should go, Casey!!
Haha it’s amazing! so much outdoor seating! 😉
Hola Juan, gracias! Esperamos regresar a Sevilla pronto. 🙂
Thanks for the very informative guide for visiting Seville. I’m saving your guide for a future trip!
I love Sevilla, but haven’t been back since 2005! All of your pictures make me think a trip is in order…
Absolutely 🙂
I want to enjoy the cafe in your second picture! For breakfast, lunch, & dinner…
Seville looks so beautiful!
Hola Daisy, encontré la dirección, en tu perfil de Airbnb,
Muchas gracias por tus comentario sobre mi y Sevilla.
Espero volver a verte por Sevilla.
Saludos cordiales.
Juan
Oh that is so cool! I wish I had done a Europe experience in college… guess we’ll have to make up for it in our (older) adult lives!
Ooh! I’d love to visit the north of Spain! I can see how it would be tough to make it all the way down to Andalusia from the North. I went to college in Boston and didn’t make it to a number of landmarks… haha
Ahh thank you Kaycie! Please go to Seville, you’ll love it. It’s a great little town.
Yes!! I hope you make it to Spain– and Sevilla in particular. We loved it, and it’s perfec tfor wandering.
Yes!! It’s my favorite thing– I’ve started choosing destinations based on wandering potential!
Awesome, Pia! I think you would love exploring Seville.
Ah yes! I loved the plaza so much. It’s really beautiful.
Thank you Patty! And oh I’d love to visit Madrid and Toledo some time too– we didn’t make it there this time.
Yes exactly– elegant AND relaxing. It’s so much fun and I found the locals to be especially hospitable.
And you’ll have to go back to Casa de Pilatos! The guides are extensive and the whole place is so fascinating.
Seville looks AMAZING. I’d love to explore it and this day-plan sounds perfect. Definitely added to the to-do list.
xx, Pia
http://gymbagsandjetlags.com
The photo of the bridge (above the 2pm note) took my breath away!!!
The pics are GORGEOUS! I have been to Madrid and TOledo, but never Seville.
Seville sounds amazing! I’m with you on the wandering around way of exploring.
So beautiful! Never been to Sevilla, Spain but has always been in my bucket list. Loving the way you highlighted the city’s favorite places to go! Oh…and wandering around the streets it’s my favorite thing to do too 🙂 xo
I really loved that Seville feels both elegant and relaxing at the same time! I expected Spain to be a bit chaotic and stressful, so I was so surprised when Seville turned out to be one of the most chilled out places I’ve ever visited! I missed Casa de Pilatos when I was in the city (I actually think this is the first time I’ve heard of it!), but it looks beautiful – next time! 😉
Oh. My. Gosh. I could spend HOURS staring at your gorgeous photos! Seville is being added to my travel bucket list as we speak (or I type, whatever 😉 ) LOVE IT! Thank you for sharing this!
Oh my goodness…this makes me want to hop on a plane and go! I was there 20 years ago for a cross cultural experience in college. Too young to fully appreciate what I was seeing.
Wow this is beautiful. One of my biggest regrets of my study abroad experience in Spain is that I never made it so far south! I lived up north in San Sebastian and it was beautiful but I’d love to go back one day and see all of this. Beautiful photography and great suggestions, Daisy!
Hahaha! My husband said it was SO BAD!
Thank you Gina!! As I wrote it I felt inspired to return as well! I wish we had more time to do off-the-beaten-path things! Thank YOU for all your help too– I’d love to go back some day.
Gorgeous!! Simply gorgeous!! I’m so glad that you really enjoyed Sevilla. There is nothing better than just wandering the streets. 🙂 I loved this guide and I think you hit the very best highlights of the city! You’re giving me inspiration to return! Thanks so much for sharing my travel guide too. Can’t wait for the rest of your travels!
I had to laugh from your warning about the temperature, in Seville I experienced 36°C for the first time in my life (at least knowingly), all while sightseeing 😉