Travel

Cambodia: Travel Guide and Photo Diary

June 28, 2017

Cambodia is a place I’ll never forget.

I grew up dreaming of visiting, and in April of this year, I finally did– with two of my best girl friends from college, one of whom just finished two years with Peace Corps there.

If you’ve ever to traveled to Southeast Asia, you’ll find a lot of similarities between Cambodia and neighboring countries. But you’ll also find flavors, stories, and challenges unique to Cambodia. Navigating the Khmer kingdom, still very much in recovery from the horrors of the Khmer Rouge, can be an adventure in and of itself.

I should preface this travel guide by saying that if seeing the world is important to you, I think you should visit Cambodia– and not just Siem Reap, where the famous temples are. But it might be a tougher trip than you imagine.

Cambodia is vibrant. In a single moment, it holds harrowing stories of human evil as well as glorious evidence of kindness, innocence, creativity and beauty. The Khmer people have lived in this region for centuries, and despite the destructive efforts of the Khmer Rouge, much of Khmer culture survives.

This guide will show you some of my favorite parts of Cambodia. It’s by no means comprehensive, but it’s also not just about typical tourist attractions. And ultimately, I hope you’ll go. Even if it’s a part of a multi-national trip to the entire region, I hope you’ll stay awhile.

Next Stop: Cambodia (and my itinerary)

April 3, 2017

Today I’m on a flight to a childhood dream.

Before I imagined myself frolicking in the fields of Tuscany or strolling through the streets of Paris, I wanted to be in Cambodia. Predating my taste for perfect, elegant food was my taste for gritty, old, abandoned centers of life. So the day I learned about Angkor Wat (and other temples), I knew I wanted to see them in person.

I am also a huge proponent of local travel– experiencing not only tourist-centered establishments but also what life is really like wherever we travel. What I loved so much about Mexico City and Quito, Ecuador was the activity and everyday adventure that proliferated between cobblestones and under awnings and behind beautifully bright doors. The truth is that most travel– particularly tourist travel– is an entirely aesthetic pursuit. If we’re to allow it to change our perspectives significantly, we must be open to the beauty (and challenge) of how lifestyles vary across the globe.

So my 10-day excursion to Cambodia will include a variety of activities (locally driven and touristy), not least because I get to hang with an insider! My really good college friend has been living in a small town in rural Cambodia for almost 2 years, and she agreed to spend part of her only work break to chaperone me and another friend around. I am so excited to see not only the famous temples of Siem Reap, but also Jasmine’s little town where she lives with her host family and teaches at a local school. It’s been months that I’ve admired her photographs from afar, and now I get to follow her around to her favorite spots.

A post shared by Jasmine Park (@jasmineapark) on Jul 6, 2016 at 3:55am PDT

My 10-Day Cambodia Itinerary

Jasmine, our friend Courtney and I will start our adventure in Phnom Penh, Cambodia’s capital. We’ll visit the the Royal Palace and the Russian Market, dining in Jasmine’s favorite cafes and restaurants. But perhaps most importantly, we’ll visit the Killing Fields and the Genocide Museum.

Heartbreaking but so very real, the Cambodian genocide was not that long ago. There is plenty of information about how a new regime effected massive destruction in a few short years, so I won’t share the details here– but it’s now a backstory that no visitor to Cambodia can ignore. In many ways, the road to recovery is still long.

After our brief stint in Phnom Penh, Jasmine will take us on a country road to her village, Phnom Kravanh, near the city of Pursat. In my mind, Jasmine’s village is a web of pristine dirt roads criss-crossing over endless miles of rice paddies. I’m expecting the reality to be a bit less picturesque, but I’m still (perhaps all the more) excited to experience a brief snapshot of Cambodian backcountry.

Jasmine has become quite the biker now that she has lived in Cambodia for a while, but I think we will be staying away from dirt biking during our visit.

A post shared by Jasmine Park (@jasmineapark) on Nov 1, 2015 at 4:58am PST

After 2 days in Jasmine’s village– hopefully visiting her host family, her students and local community– we’ll be on our way to Siem Reap, where the Angkor temples are located.

According to a number of sources (and Jasmine herself), the most stunning moments at the temples are sunrise and sunset. We’ll take early morning photographs of the gorgeous landscape, crawl through nooks and duck under overhangs. My only challenge will be staying present enough and taking a few moments to lower my camera.

After Siem Reap, we’ll be boarding a plane to Sihanoukville. The Cambodian coast is less famous than that of Vietnam or Thailand, but Sihanoukville tends to be overrun by backpackers seeking a good time. My friends and I are the more quiet types when it comes to relaxation, so we’ll be going straight from the airport to the ferry dock, where we’ll take a short ride to Koh Rong Samloem.

This beautiful, completely undeveloped island is the quieter cousin of Koh Rong Island. I’m hoping everything Jasmine has heard, and that I’ve read online, is true about Samloem– that there’s little to no electricity, absolutely no bars or clubs, and that we snagged one of few bungalows that even has air conditioning.

(image source)

I’m not going to lie– this photo looks a *little* over-saturated to me. But I know by the end of our trip we will be tired– and even if the beach is a little less cyan in color, we will definitely need the quiet respite.

I’ll try my best to be on Instagram (@simplicityrelished) throughout these adventures– but as always, I’ll bring home lots of stories and photographs to share in coming weeks.

(cover photo by Christian Moscoso)

Mexico City Wanderings: A Photo Diary

March 27, 2017

I’ve sung the praises of Mexico City and coupled them with detailed travel tips. So this post will be a little different.

Last week, we spent 4 nights in the Condesa neighborhood of Mexico City– a serene, treelined section with quaint coffeeshops and restaurants galore. But my favorite thing? Strolling through the neighborhood.

There is something deeply relaxing about wandering with no immediate destination in mind. I get to take in little details like stained-glass windows, hanging balcony plants, and children playing millennia-old Mayan games. (To be fair, Aaron does all the navigating and I follow like a puppy…)

What I love most about Mexico– where I’ve visited at least– is the innovation that proliferates on playgrounds and sidewalks and porches. People make beauty all the time, whether it’s decorating a small space, making delicious simple food, or street cleaning with a broom and water from a puddle. It all makes me smile, and realize that creativity is a choice that requires no special processes, environments or tools– simply a desire to make better.

This time, we explored Mexico City with Aaron’s mom and brother, and we found ourselves endlessly commenting on what we saw. There is just so much life; music pours out of taquerias and garbage trucks alike. There’s nothing fabulous in quite the same way as this city of cities. Enjoy these snapshots!

Cherishing moments over snapshots (& where we’re headed right now)

November 21, 2016

As I write this, I’m sitting at the Los Angeles Airport awaiting to board our flight to Osaka, Japan. Osaka is no small town, but our final destination is Kyoto. Oh, Kyoto… how we love thee.

A gaggle of young Japanese college students gather around us. They’re laughing and sporting fashion that is so different from what we wear here in the States. And I realize that even before I step onboard, I’m already experiencing a glimpse of the world outside of my own. The world that is still vast and unknown.

I’ve been reflecting on a few things, and hoping to mull them over a little more as we wander through Kyoto’s many gardens dripping with crimson maple leaves.

Moving onward post-election. In full disclosure, the past couple of weeks in the wake of Trump’s election have been mostly difficult for my friends and community. I want to take this time to reflect on what has really changed… and what has stayed the same.
Our world-saving mission. I’ve been reading Start With Why by Simon Sinek for an important endeavor at work. Our team has been feeling compelled to articulate what we’re calling our “world-saving mission”– not just a statement about what we make and how we make it, but the ultimate why of our work. Does your workplace have a world-saving mission?
Cherishing moments over snapshots. I have never been great at taking photographs in moments when I am really, truly enjoying myself. In addition to being a complete amateur when it comes to selfies, I tend to forget that making known my little moments of joy is part of living in the social media age. The truth is, taking photos feels like an interruption, not an enhancement. Unless, of course, photography is actually part of that special moment.

This Thanksgiving we’ll be eating sushi and traditional Kyoto cuisine rather than turkey. We won’t be gathering with friends around a table or whisking gravy on the stove.

And while I love American Thanksgiving more than any other holiday, I am looking forward to experiencing a different kind of gratitude. A quiet gratitude. A peaceful rush of appreciation for the blessings of this year, hidden as they may have been.

I also hope to be re-inspired to write. In the moments when we feel thus inclined, we’ll share a photograph or two.

The Ultimate Guide To Mexico City in 2020: itinerary & map

July 25, 2016

[Updated in 2020!]

This has to be written.

Ever since we visited Mexico City in 2016, we’ve returned every single year. For our first trip, Aaron and I scoured the internet, print magazines, published books, and videos for tips. We found very little akin to what I’ve written here— a summation of favorites organized by neighborhood.

Over the past several years, Mexico City has been increasingly on the radar of savvy travelers. But it is such a complex city to really take the time to understand— and there still aren’t too many people who have written about it in as much detail as I would like to see.

And it deserves to be written about.

I am pretty convinced that Mexico City is a must-see for any foodie, history lover, architectural enthusiast, culture junkie, artist, adventurer, and travel geek. Basically, it’s an awesome destination for anyone with high curiosity and a desire to be surprised, inspired, and entertained.

The ultimate guide to Mexico City- a stunning and vibrant place anyone can love. Tips on where to visit and what to do.

Yosemite National Park: A Quick Guide

May 31, 2016

Yosemite National Park is iconic. It’s nature’s majesty on display, creation at its best, and emblematic in the world of all outdoor pursuits.

Its international fame has reached the ends of the earth. Each year, more than 3 million people visit the park, and the numbers are only growing.

In other words, you’ll rub shoulders with the nations when you head to Yosemite. And if you have no idea what to expect before you show up, your trip might end up feeling just a bit overwhelming (and underwhelming)– in all the wrong ways.

Our Next Travel Destinations (and a little life update)

April 18, 2016

It’s all too easy to plod along in the nebulous season of our twenties, forgetting that life is rapidly unfolding as the years go by. I recently started a new full-time position marketing for a small non-profit here in Pasadena. The past several weeks of transition have been exhilarating– but for the most part, I’ve felt as though I’ve been row-row-rowing my boat, if not very gently down the stream.

Milestones sneak up on us when we’re so inwardly focused. My sweet grandmother, who has been in and out of the hospital for the past several weeks, passed away on Friday morning. I wasn’t terribly shocked at the news. I was more shocked, in fact, that all while I thought time would stand still during this season of my life, it was doing the exact opposite. It was marching on.

10 Reasons To Visit Morocco Now

April 1, 2016

I often do a “10 best snapshots” post after we travel (see Japan and Ecuador), because our passion as travelers is to find frames that capture everything we loved about our trip.

But Morocco is different. I’ve had countless people ask me whether going to Morocco was worthwhile— and whether they should plan a trip themselves. Some have expressed fears regarding safety, while others wonder what exactly there is to see.

In today’s political climate, I honestly can’t think of a better time to visit an Islamic country. I’ll explain more below, but the gist is this: we don’t know what we don’t know, and that can only be resolved by going and seeing for ourselves.

The bottom line? I think you should go to Morocco. And I’m about to prove it.

A Quick Guide To Marrakech, Morocco

March 22, 2016

Marrakech is a party, and everyone is invited. It’s not as old as Fes, but it certainly tells its own stories of art, celebration, tradition and finesse. Marrakech was our last stop in Morocco, so we were already familiar with some of the local scenes. Still, it was a sight to behold, and there’s no question in my mind why tourists love Marrakech.

This quick guide to Marrakech, Morocco is designed to inspire you. As I’ve written in my other posts on Morocco, I highly recommend working with local guides in order to discover all the local treasures. You can certainly travel through Morocco on your own (given you’re an experienced traveler), but the local culture is one where connections and friendships do make a difference.

Stay: Palais Khum

We scored a few nights here as part of the tour package we purchased, and it was definitely one of my favorites. Right at the doorstep of Marrakech’s famous souks (markets), Palais Khum was a lovely retreat with a modern touch. I strongly suggest staying in a riad-style accommodation rather than a large hotel establishment. Riads are traditional guesthouses with simple courtyards, traditional meals and beautiful Moroccan artwork.

Eat: Traditional Moroccan Fare

As you wander through the souks, especially towards the main square in Marrakech, there will be many types of restaurants on offer. You might see fries, sandwiches and burgers alongside orange juice, traditional bread and sweets. Ask your riad staff or hosts to point you to a restaurant that offers traditional Moroccan food. Wheat originates from the Middle East, expanding its reach throughout North Africa, so you’ll definitely want to taste local bread! Oh, and don’t forget Moroccan mint tea: I’ll warn you that there’s more sugar in it than water, but enjoy it anyway.

See: Historical and modern Morocco

Souks

Just as we loved wandering the souks in Fes, we loved Marrakech just as much. We actually began our visit to the markets before everything opened, so we saw lots of shopkeepers just beginning to arrive at work. Lanterns dangled from awnings, pillows tumbled from doorsteps. If you decide to pick up a few treasures, make sure to bargain: at least ask for 50% off their asking price, if not more!

Jemaa el-Fna

This is the main square in Marrakech, which comes alive at night. Wander through alongside thousands of others gathering to tell stories, play games, dine, shop and celebrate on almost every evening of the week. During the day, you’ll see snake charmers, monkey handlers and a variety of vendors, all of whom will approach you without invitation and offer photos. Oblige or don’t oblige– they’re friendly as can be.

Saadian Tombs

One of the major destinations within Marrakech, the Saadian tombs house 60 members of the Saadian family, overthrown in the late 16th century. Rather than destroy their bodies, their conquerors gave them dignified burials, and the tombs were rediscovered in 1917. Restoration of this special site continues, and much of the original tile remains.

Ben Youssef Madrasa

This beautiful Islamic college is open to the public– a rare occurrence in Morocco. It was one of the largest theological colleges in North Africa and was built in the 14th century by the Marinid dynasty. You’ll love the tiling of the columns and the beautiful pool in the center; if you’re luckier than we were, the pool will be filled.

El-Bahia Palace

Don’t miss this stunning space: sure, perhaps there are rooms for wives and concubines of the misogynistic era, but appreciating nuance is key. I love the traditional combination of gardens and mosaics– two art forms that, when brought together, are impeccable.

Sanssouci Cooking School

We spent an amazing afternoon learning how to make some of our favorite Moroccan dishes: lamb with prunes, chicken pastilla, chilled salads, and couscous. The team at Sanssouci arranged it all, from the shopping experience to the opportunity to eat our favorite dishes. If you love food and have even the smallest bit of cooking experience, you have to do this!

La Mamounia Hotel

This is the ultra-exclusive haunt of celebrities past and present. You might not be able to afford a night here (we weren’t), but it’s worth stopping in for a coffee and pastry in the gardens. It has an absolutely stunning interior and we loved exploring just long enough to stay somewhat inconspicuous.

A few favorite resources

Top 10 Marrakech: I love these Top 10 guides as a starting point to explore the highlights tourists usually hit up.
DK Eyewitness Morocco I’m partial to Insight Guides and DK Eyewitness, as they’re a great balance between images and text.

How To Actually Save Money For Travel

March 15, 2016

This is a topic covered by many other bloggers. So why am I chiming in?

First, I am a strong believer in intentional, thoughtful, socially-conscious spending. And I happen to believe that responsible travel is a wonderful pleasure upon which to spend our money. Whether we go overseas to countries where our native language is not spoken, or we head elsewhere within the bounds of our own nation, travel can invigorate and inspire us in so many ways.

But how do we afford to travel? A few common answers:

There are some so-called industry secrets, many of which you are sure to find online. Some people get to travel a lot for work and do side trips along the way. Others get to spend large amounts of money on their personal Mileage Plus cards for their company, and then get reimbursed for it while keeping the credit. Still others will insist that if you simply cut out your daily latte, you’ll be on your way to Paris.

Then there are those who will give you the obvious tips, some of which are easier said than done: travel off-season, choose AirBnb, stay with friends, find airlines with crazy deals (usually off-season), avoid tourist traps.

While I appreciate these earnest ideas, the bottom line is that most of us simply need a lesson in saving money. There’s nothing glamorous about it, no true secrets that evade common sense, but there is one key ingredient many of us don’t possess naturally: self-control.

Because the truth is, travel does cost money. You can spend your own money or someone else’s (in the form of credits, connections, or some other social capital), but a lot of energy goes into transporting oneself from one place to another, and then finding housing, food and interesting activities to enjoy. This, however, doesn’t make travel impossible for those who desire it. Here’s my step-by-step guide.

Into the Desert: Sahara Dunes and Surrounding Scenes

February 29, 2016

Our journey through Morocco continued from Fes to the Sahara desert– nearly 4 million square miles in size and the largest hot desert in the world. In other words, there is a lot of sand.

It’s pretty amazing to me how, when there is a large quantity of one thing, it takes on the characteristics of something entirely different. Sand is simply rock that has been broken down over centuries by the elements into a near-powdery substance. It covers the desert like waves of water. It blows like dust. It also slips, crunches and sinks like snow.

Fes, Morocco: 10 Things You Absolutely Have To Do

February 11, 2016

I could wax poetic in a long exposé about this fascinating city with institutions dating back to the 9th century. I could, but I won’t– because I want more people to see this. So, despite my love-hate relationship with the list-form blog post, here it is. Because in the myriad places one might travel, Morocco is still surprisingly low on many bucket lists. Despite its rising popularity among savvy wanderers, there’s something mysterious about Morocco that makes it seem less accessible than it really is.

Despite my enthusiasm, I’ll offer up a few caveats: Fes is not an easy city to navigate all on one’s own, particularly if French and Arabic are an enigma. Even with some language ability, though, the fascinating portion of the city is the maze of its medina: walls and alleys wrapped around each other like intestines, except each doorway leads to new pathways that branch in and out as if in the 4th dimension.

In other words, without some help, you’ll probably get lost. Google Maps hasn’t exactly gotten the whole place figured out yet. But even with that risk, it is so worth it.

Morocco Travel Diary: Casablanca and Beyond

February 4, 2016

Traveling through completely unfamiliar territory is inevitably like drinking from a fire hydrant. There are depths of culture to plumb, ancient stories to sift through, and pockets of communities that are nuanced and complex. I continued to return to a single question as we made our way through Morocco: why haven’t I studied any of this?

72 hours in Barcelona: Architectural Wonderland

January 29, 2016

We had a special Barcelona experience: we were barely there for 72 hours, and spent Christmas Eve Catalonian-style. I can hardly do justice to Barcelona’s highlights since we only had time for a few stops, but I was absolutely in awe with its architectural flair.

From the Gothic Quarter to Gaudi’s creations, Barcelona is a must-see for architecture lovers. It has a bit of everything: vibrant history, diverse culture, amazing food, high fashion, street performers, stunning cathedrals and ordinary pedestrians. Even with the short amount of time I spent there, I fell in love.

Barcelona spain- an architectural wonderland

Alhambra Photo Diary & Quick Guide

January 20, 2016

Oh, the Alhambra. What a gem. No visit to Andalucia is quite complete without strolling the grounds of this magical palace, the last Moorish stand against Christian Spain. I’ve raved about the Moors and their architectural prowess in this post about the Royal Alcazar of Seville, and I don’t feel I need to say more. In this case, the pictures are worth a thousand words.

Before I share the snapshots from our magnificent pilgrimage, however, here are a few tips for your visit. I found the official Alhambra website a bit tricky to navigate, and I hope to answer some of my own questions here.